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    <title type="text">Culture Making items tagged clothing</title>
    <subtitle type="text">Culture Making:Main column content</subtitle>
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    <updated>2008-11-21T22:39:26Z</updated>
    <rights>Copyright (c) 2008, Nate Barksdale</rights>
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    <id>tag:culture-making.com,2008:11:21</id>


    <entry>
      <title>On the Death and 441&#45;Year Life of the Pixel</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.culture-making.com/post/on_the_death_and_441_year_life_of_the_pixel/" />
      <id>tag:culture-making.com,2008:author/9.1060</id>
      <published>2008-11-21T15:30:46Z</published>
      <updated>2008-11-21T22:39:26Z</updated>
      <author>
            <name>Nate Barksdale</name>
            <email>natebarksdale@gmail.com</email>
                  </author>

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			<b>Nate: </b><em>“The word pixel, of course, is a shortened form of "picture element," and dates to 1965. But a form of it appears in the 1936 Frank Capra/Gary Cooper movie <a href="http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0027996/">Mr Deeds Goes to Town</a>, in which Cooper's character is described during a trial as being "pixilated." The witness explains thus: "The word 'pixilated' is an early American expression derived from the word 'pixies,' meaning elves. They would say the pixies had got him. As we nowadays would say, a man is 'barmy.'"”</em><br />
<div class="author" style="font-size: -1">a <a href="http://www.typography.com/ask/showBlog.php?blogID=153">typography.com</a> post by Jonathan Hoefler, 20 November 2008</div><hr />		
		<div style="float:right; padding:15px 5px 5px 5px"><img src="http://culture-making.com/media/ostaus_210.jpg" alt="image"></div><p>The struggle to adequately render letterforms on a pixel grid is a familiar one, and an ancient one as well: this bitmap alphabet is from <i>La Vera Perfettione del Disegno di varie sorte di ricami,</i> an embroidery guide by Giovanni Ostaus published in 1567.</p><p>Renaissance ‘lace books’ have much to offer the modern digital designer, who also faces the challenge of portraying clear and replicable images in a constrained environment. Ostaus’s alphabet follows the cardinal rule of bitmaps, which is to always reckon the height of a capital letter on an odd number of pixels. (Try drawing a capital <strong>E</strong> on both a 5×5 grid and a 6×6, and you’ll see.) Ostaus ignored the second rule, however, which is “leave space for descenders.”</p><p>I’d planned to introduce this item with a snappy headline that juxtaposed the old and the new — <i>for your sixteenth-century Nintendo!</i> — before reflecting on the pixel’s moribund existence. Pixels were the stuff of my first computer, which strained to show 137 of them in a square inch; my latest cellphone manages 32,562 in this same space, and has 65,000 colors to choose from, not eight. Its smooth anti-aliased type helps conceal the underlying matrix of pixels, which are nearly as invisible as the grains of silver halide on a piece of film. And its user interface reinforces this illusion using a trick borrowed from Hollywood: it keeps the type moving as much as possible.</p><p>Crisp cellphone screens aren’t the end of the story. There are already sharper displays on handheld remote controls and consumer-grade cameras, and monitors supporting the tremendous <i>WQUXGA</i> resolution of 3840×2400 are making their way from medical labs to living rooms. The pixel will never go away entirely, but its finite universe of digital watches and winking highway signs is contracting fast. It’s likely that the pixel’s final and most enduring role will be a shabby one, serving as an out-of-touch visual cliché to connote “the digital age.”
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    <entry>
      <title>Water bottle sandals, by Kinzénguélé</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.culture-making.com/post/water_bottle_sandals_by_kinzenguele/" />
      <id>tag:culture-making.com,2008:author/9.852</id>
      <published>2008-11-21T15:30:46Z</published>
      <updated>2008-11-21T22:39:26Z</updated>
      <author>
            <name>Nate Barksdale</name>
            <email>natebarksdale@gmail.com</email>
                  </author>

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					<b>Nate: </b><em>“I'm not even sure what continent this record of heartbreaking ingenuity reaches us from. It shows a variant on the more common repurposed footwear of the developing world, the car tire sandal. Presumably these are less durable and comfortable—though perhaps on hot sand the bottles offer better insulation than rubber would.”</em><br />		
		<a href="http://www.schoolgallery.fr/schoolgallery/spip.php?article598"><img src="http://culture-making.com/media/4055430ae6f670e2d41e485655adc57f18c44b1c_m.jpg" alt="photo" /></a><hr />
<div class="author" style="font-size: -1">Water bottle sandals, photo by Kinzénguélé, from the exhibition <a href="http://www.schoolgallery.fr/schoolgallery/spip.php?article598">L'art ... en eaux troubles</a>, at the School Gallery in Paris, March 2008 :: via <a href="http://ffffound.com/image/4055430ae6f670e2d41e485655adc57f18c44b1c">FFFFOUND!</a>/<a href="http://reubenmiller.typepad.com/my_weblog/2008/04/page/2/">ReubenMiller</a></div>		

	
			
			
			
		
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    <entry>
      <title>Fig Leaf Wardrobe, by Tord Boontje</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.culture-making.com/post/fig_leaf_wardrobe_by_tord_boontje/" />
      <id>tag:culture-making.com,2008:author/9.806</id>
      <published>2008-11-21T15:30:46Z</published>
      <updated>2008-11-21T22:39:26Z</updated>
      <author>
            <name>Nate Barksdale</name>
            <email>natebarksdale@gmail.com</email>
                  </author>

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					<b>Nate: </b><em>“Here's a witty if not-super-practical Dutch furniture designer's play on the first post-Fall human cultural product. In this case it's the fig tree's own nakedness that's being covered up.”</em><br />		
		<a href="http://mocoloco.com/archives/005493.php"><img src="http://culture-making.com/media/fig-cabinet_tord_boontje.jpg" alt="image" /></a><hr />
<div class="author" style="font-size: -1">Fig Leaf Wardrobe, by <a href="http://www.tordboontje.com/">Tord Boontje</a> for <a href="http://www.madebymeta.com/pages/products.html">Meta</a>, Copper, enamel, bronze, and hand-dyed silk :: via <a href="http://mocoloco.com/archives/005493.php">MoCo Loco</a></div>		

	
			
			
			
		
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    <entry>
      <title>Saudi salons: a brief history</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.culture-making.com/post/saudi_salons_a_brief_history/" />
      <id>tag:culture-making.com,2008:author/9.778</id>
      <published>2008-11-21T15:30:46Z</published>
      <updated>2008-11-21T22:39:26Z</updated>
      <author>
            <name>Nate Barksdale</name>
            <email>natebarksdale@gmail.com</email>
                  </author>

      <content type="html"><![CDATA[
        
						
			

			<b>Nate: </b><em>“Here's a fascinating explanation of how various cultural needs and strictures shaped the development of Saudi Arabian hair salons—which are descended from (and still named for) tailor's shops.”</em><br />
<div class="author" style="font-size: -1">a <a href="http://saudiwoman.wordpress.com/2008/08/25/saudi-salons/">Saudiwoman's Weblog</a> post by Eman Al Nafjan, 25 August 2008 :: via <a href="http://globalvoicesonline.org/2008/08/27/saudi-arabia-the-history-of-salons/">Global Voices</a></div><hr />		
		<p>They are called <i>Mashghal</i>  in Arabic which literally means a working place, from the Arabic noun <i>shoogal</i> (work in general). This term was coined to refer to little shops where a group of usually Pakistani tailors make women dresses. About 30 years ago readymade women clothes were mostly unavailable to the general public and women drew designs on paper and took then to these tailor shops with fabric bought by the meter from areas similar to outdoor malls. For measurement, they would give the tailor a previously made dress that fits and he would use it as a measurement model. And that’s to avoid any physical contact between the tailor and the customer. I know now you’re wondering where did women get there first well measured dress and I too wonder.</p><p>These little tailor shops started to evolve into closed women shops where the tailors are women from the Philippines. The shops became bigger and the décor slightly better. However these women only shops are pricier, so the male version stuck around. The women <i>mashghal</i> started to quickly expand into the beauty salon business. So a women could go get her hair done and have a dress made at the same time. But when Al Eissaee, a big name in the fabric import business, started  to also bring in quality readymade clothes, he started a huge trend that snowballed into our current mega malls. This in turn affected the tailor business for both the male and female shops. The male mostly went out of business except for a lucky few and the female shops concentrated more on the beauty salon side of the business, so much so that some even closed the dress making side. But for some unexplainable reason they are still called a <i>mashghal</i>  even on official ministry of commerce licensing papers.
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    <entry>
      <title>Tokyo vintage</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.culture-making.com/post/tokyo_vintage/" />
      <id>tag:culture-making.com,2008:author/9.668</id>
      <published>2008-11-21T15:30:46Z</published>
      <updated>2008-11-21T22:39:26Z</updated>
      <author>
            <name>Nate Barksdale</name>
            <email>natebarksdale@gmail.com</email>
                  </author>

      <content type="html"><![CDATA[
        
						
			

					<b>Nate: </b><em>“I guess the transcontinental vintage clothing trade counts as a form of cultivating culture: pruning, honing, preserving (and, oh yeah, marking up the price). It's nice to know Westerners can go to Tokyo to experience a version of both our near-future (technology-wise) and the not-too-distant past.”</em><br />		
		<p>The story about vintage clothes in Tokyo goes like this: A Hollywood actress, after a successful crash diet, sold her size 6 wardrobe to a thrift shop in Santa Monica. Three months later she came to Tokyo to promote her latest movie and one afternoon wandered into one of the city’s landmark vintage clothing shops, called Santa Monica. What should she find there but her own shorts and several party dresses, unobtrusively displayed under a sign that read: “Santa Monica Style.”</p> <p>The story is credible for the simple reason that Tokyo has now reached a point where it’s safe to call it Planet Vintage. Among the 400-plus shops scattered over the city, myths like this abound.</p><p>The good news is that it’s not all rumor and folklore - according to a fashion stylist, Keiko Okura, “the quality of Tokyo vintage products are unmatched.”
</p><hr />
<div class="author" style="font-size: -1">from "<a href="http://www.iht.com/articles/2008/08/18/style/FVINTAGE.php">Toyko hones its vintage clothing market</a>," by Kaori Shoji, <a href="http://www.iht.com/articles/2008/08/18/style/FVINTAGE.php"><i>International Herald-Tribune</i></a>, 18 August 2008</div>		

	
			
			
			
		
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    <entry>
      <title>Life is, counterintuitively, good</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.culture-making.com/post/life_is_counterintuitively_good/" />
      <id>tag:culture-making.com,2008:author/9.564</id>
      <published>2008-11-21T15:30:46Z</published>
      <updated>2008-11-21T22:39:26Z</updated>
      <author>
            <name>Nate Barksdale</name>
            <email>natebarksdale@gmail.com</email>
                  </author>

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					<b>Andy: </b><em>“We are definitely going to spend a week of "five questions" on the Life is good® phenomenon . . . it's the perfect, paradoxical sign of the times.”</em><br />		
		<p>Like the mass popularization of smiley face buttons in the early 1970s, which coincided with another oil and economic crisis, Life is good T-shirts have caught on among people who feel the products are spreading a positive message in a troubled world.
</p>
<p>
The invention of the smiley face is largely credited to Harvey Ross Ball, an advertising executive from Worcester, Mass., who drew the symbol in 1963 to improve worker morale at an insurance company that had merged with another.
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It later became a fad when printed with the slogan “Have a nice day,” selling countless pieces of merchandise as an almost subversively counterintuitive message that in many ways seems to be repeating with “Life is good” today.
</p>
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“The years when the company has thrived the most have been the most economically, politically and socially challenged years,” Mr. Jacobs said, adding that the company is on track to reach $135 million in sales this year through retail stores and a Web site. (In addition to the 4,500 stores that carry the Life is good merchandise, there are about 105 independently owned shops in airports and cities across the country that sell only Life is good products.) “The people who face the most adversity are the ones who embrace ‘Life is good’ the most,” he said.
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<div class="author" style="font-size: -1">from "<a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2008/07/24/fashion/24LIFE.html?&amp;pagewanted=all">Life is Good for Clothing Company and Its Devotees</a>," by Eric Wilson, <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/">NYTimes.com</a>, 24 July 2008</div>		

	
			
			
			
		
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    <entry>
      <title>Perfectly unfashionable</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.culture-making.com/post/perfectly_unfashionable/" />
      <id>tag:culture-making.com,2008:author/9.543</id>
      <published>2008-11-21T15:30:46Z</published>
      <updated>2008-11-21T22:39:26Z</updated>
      <author>
            <name>Nate Barksdale</name>
            <email>natebarksdale@gmail.com</email>
                  </author>

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					<b>Andy: </b><em>“One of those times when the phrase, "You go, girl," seems completely appropriate.”</em><br />		
		<p><a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1400064732?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=cmcom-20&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=1400064732" onclick="javascript:pageTracker._trackPageview('/outgoing/amazon/girls-gone-mild');"><i>Girls Gone Mild</i></a> pays tribute to young women who have tangled with corporations and campus authorities to challenge the status quo. One such heroine is Ella Gunderson, who at age 11 appealed to Nordstrom for more modest clothing selections. It began with a shopping trip with her mother, 13-year-old sister Robin, and friends. When Robin tried on jeans that they agreed were too tight, they asked for the next size up--only to have the Nordstrom clerk advise them, “No you don’t want <i>that</i> size, you want the smaller size, the tighter size, because it’s The Look.”
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<p>
That didn’t sit well with Ella. She wrote a letter to the company (her mother didn’t find out until Ella asked for help addressing it) expressing frustration at clothes cut too tight and too low and clerks too narrow in their concept of fashion. “I think you should change that,” Ella told Nordstrom.
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<p>
A few months later—while the Gundersons were helping produce a local Pure Fashion show—they were surprised to receive two apologetic responses from the company. Ella’s letter and the Nordstrom responses were added to press kits prepared for the fashion show. Soon the story made the front page of the <i>Seattle Times.</i> Radio and television interviews followed, including an interview on the <i>Today Show. Today</i>‘s Katie Couric also interviewed Pete Nordstrom, who acknowledged receiving such complaints from other teenage girls for some time. A question raised at a stockholder meeting pressed the matter further with the company: “What do you plan to do about the Ella Gunderson issue?”
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</p><hr />
<div class="author" style="font-size: -1">from <a href="http://www.weeklystandard.com/Utilities/printer_preview.asp?idArticle=15333&amp;R=13B517742">
Ladies, Please</a>, by Jennifer A. Marshall, <a href="http://www.weeklystandard.com/">The Weekly Standard</a>, 28 July 2008 :: via <a href="http://aldaily.com">Arts &amp; Letters Daily</a></div>		

	
			
			
			
		
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    <entry>
      <title>Albania’s sworn virgins</title>
      <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://www.culture-making.com/post/albanias_sworn_virgins/" />
      <id>tag:culture-making.com,2008:author/9.484</id>
      <published>2008-11-21T15:30:46Z</published>
      <updated>2008-11-21T22:39:26Z</updated>
      <author>
            <name>Nate Barksdale</name>
            <email>natebarksdale@gmail.com</email>
                  </author>

      <content type="html"><![CDATA[
        
						
			

					<b>Nate: </b><em>“Interesting example of gender fluidity in a very traditional culture. (Well, perhaps fluidity is too fluid a term).”</em><br />		
		<p>The tradition of the sworn virgin can be traced to the Kanun of Leke Dukagjini, a code of conduct that has been passed on orally among the clans of northern Albania for more than five centuries. Under the Kanun, the role of women is severely circumscribed: Take care of children and maintain the home. While a woman’s life is worth half that of a man, a virgin’s value is the same - 12 oxen.</p><p>The sworn virgin was born of social necessity in an agrarian region plagued by war and death. If the patriarch of the family died with no male heirs, unmarried women in the family could find themselves alone and powerless. By taking an oath of virginity, women could take on the role of men as head of the family, carry a weapon, own property and move freely.</p><p>They dress like men, adopt a male swagger and spend their lives in the company of other men.
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<div class="author" style="font-size: -1">from "<a href="http://www.iht.com/articles/2008/06/23/europe/virgins.php">Sworn to virginity and living as men in Albania</a>", by Dan Bilefsky, <a href="http://www.iht.com"><i>International Herald-Tribune</i></a>, 23 June 2008</div>		

	
			
			
			
		
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